Created in 1976 by the CAI-SAT section of Mori, it is one of the most difficult and spectacular climbing routes in the Alps. It was completely renovated in 2014.
The only ferrata outside the Sarca/Garda valley axis but, given its proximity, is historically one of the most popular bolted routes with visitors to Garda Trentino. The first via ferrata in the modern style, created in 1976, has been renowned for years for its technical challenges and exposure.
The short, easy access route, proximity to roads, and its aspect which mean it can be climbed all year round, have made it a favourite with hundreds of thousands of ascents over the years, making the rock smooth and increasing the level of difficulty. So in 2014 SAT undertook to overhaul the route, adding many new holds and generally facilitating the users. It is nonetheless still physically challenging on certain sections. The ferrata is noted for its succession of exposed traverses with a bird’s eye view over the village of Mori.
As in the case of Pisetta and Dain Piccolo, the first metres of the ascent have been deliberately left difficult so that users are aware of the effort required and have a chance to retreat before committing to the ascent.
This via ferrata is exposed to the south: in summer, avoid it when it's too hot or start the route early in the morning.
- Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
- Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
- Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
- The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
- Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice on some routes which make progression dangerous.
- Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems); put on your helmet once you get near to the wall. Rocks might fall before you get to the start of the via ferrata.
- During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one is clipped on to each safety cable.
- Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
- Wear clothing suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route: hiking boots and ferrata gloves to protect you from contact with the metal parts.
- Pay special attention on the easy parts where there are no cables.
- Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather. If you even think you see any problems that might compromise safety, turn back and let us know about the situation at [email protected] .
- Always evaluate a few important conditions: the proximity to other crowds, all the gears available and the preservation of the route. Beware, YOU are ultimately and solely responsible for taking this path and the safety rules and features that goes with it.
- These instructions are no substitute for the specific courses held by mountaineering associations or professional guides. Unless you have experience doing via ferratas, it is better to go accompanied by a mountain guide.
Emergency number 112.
The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.
Tips and hints
- For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda:
APT Garda Trentino, Tel. +39 0464 554444 - www.gardatrentino.it
Getting to northern lake Garda / Garda Trentino: www.gardatrentino.it
Mori is about 15 km from Riva del Garda. You can reach it via the state road 240 in the direction Rovereto.
ParkingThere are several parking places available in Mori.
Author’s map recommendations
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
- technical mountain clothing
- hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole
- via ferrata gear
- pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)
- a length of rope (recommended)
- 1 Waypoints
- 1 Waypoints